What wire gauges should I use?
For most custom jobs:
16-gauge for most of the wiring, 18-gauge in the bars (to the switches) and 14-gauge from the battery to the ignition switch.
Keep in mind though every bike will be a little different, depending
on the accessories you use and the load you put on the wiring.
I have used the above on all of my bare bones wired bikes without issue.
When in doubt, use the same gauge the stock had to connect two components.
Is it easier to cut away the unneeded wiring or start from scratch?
I personally rip the wiring out and start from scratch basically.
Leaving only the wiring and connectors attached to the individual components.
There are several advantages to this:
All new wiring and connectors that should last for years to come.
You might learn something, and know your wiring inside and out!
At a bare bones level you should only have at most 8 wires or less
going down the back bone of the the bike. (Super clean look!)
I only see one fuse on the diagrams. Should I use more?
One fuse is all you need. The bike does not need more.
And one some stock models only one is used.
However, fuses are a great tool for troubleshooting should something
go wrong. If you want more fuses simply add them as needed
in line with the circuit. For example a fuse before the accessories
and another fuse before the ignition system.
What about starters and signals and a horn?
I have designed these diagrams to be as simple as I think is possible.
Therefore some diagrams will not show a starter, signals or a horn.
However I also designed these diagrams in the same format so that you
can see that a starter is a starter and it is wired the same no matter the bike.
For example: On the Honda Twin diagrams you will see there is no starter
but on the Honda Four diagrams there is a starter. Looking at both diagrams
you can see how a starter would be wired on a twin should you need it.
How do I run my bike battery less and ditch this 30 year old 30lb brick?
As far as battery-less is concerned not all bikes can run without a battery.
A capacitor is a cool option. Assuming your bike can run with one, it is the smallest thing you can get. Keep in mind though the headlights and other accessories will not work if the bike is not running. They also work poorly, when the bike is idling. A upgraded rectifier will fix this problem. The capacitor is simply hooked up in place of the battery POS+ and NEG-.
If you still need a battery, there a lots of very small batteries out there now.
If you are running a kick only bike a small sealed battery will work fine.
Most auto parts stores carry them. Just look for the smallest 12v 4amp (sometimes called 4lbs)
Again, an upgraded rectifier will insure the battery is always charged to it's fullest potential.
If you are running a kick only or starter the trick-est battery you can get are my
super small race batteries. Almost as small as a capacitor with the power of a big battery!
This is awesome! This has been a huge help for me!
How can I help you continue this project?
I am happy to help! And I will continue as long as there is a need and the support for it. All donations are welcome. And help pay for hosting, maintaining, and adding more diagrams for other projects. I am basically a one man band.
(Though I do have the help and support of my wife and kids at times!)
Though donations are helpful and always accepted I know not everyone can,
So all of my diagrams are free to access anytime regardless.
Other ways you can help...
Feedback is always welcome, I am always tweaking these to make them as easy as possible for everyone.
Please don't post your self or let others post my copy written work on forums and other sites. You can let them know, or let me know that a simple link back to my site is greatly appreciated.